Tuesday, 29 May 2012

Enicar AF1010(B) Restoration

This is an Enicar AF1010(B). I've had this watch for about 12/18 months now. The watch is a classic design, beautifully finished, Swiss hand-wound movement, but it has been a perpetual nightmare since I bought it. There are some unconventional design aspects for the movement, and replacement parts are hard to find.

I've lost pieces, broken pieces, and had to resort to purchasing a parts movement. Hopefully it has all been worth it. The following photos are the final assembly for what I think is now my best Swiss hand-wound dress watch.

Here is one of my parts containers, you can see a couple of bridges, wheels, an escapement, springs, clicks, yoke, and so on.

The parts are being prepared for the ultrasonic cleaner, in a newly designed cage I've made from a cutlery holder.

To start, I've got a photo of the obverse of what is a fairly conventional hand-winding movement.

Flipping the movement over, the first part to go in is of course the centre wheel.

The AF1010 holds the centre wheel in place with a small bridge. The nice thing about this movement is the quality of the jewelling. I should temper that praise by saying that Enicar are also guilty of a little jewel inflation on this movement... I'll point that out in a few photos from now.

Back to the obverse of the movement again, with the cannon pinion pressed onto the centre wheel.

Next, the clutch yoke and set lever spring a set.

I haven't got a clear individual photo of the minute wheel, but you may notice that it has a couple of jewels seemingly pressed into the wheel's face. There are four jewels around the minute wheel, contributing to the jewel count of the movement. I do not believe they serve any purpose other that to increase the jewel count. Enicar are certainly not the only manufacture guilty of this, but you would hope that a watch like this could be sold on its own merits without the need to stamp "25" on the movement instead of "21".

A weak point in the AF1010 design is the set lever bridge. The arm which engages the set lever and provides the satisfying 'click' whenever the position of the stem is changed (the winding postion versus the setting position) is either poorly manufactured or not designed to take the stress of the action its subject to. I have tried to get a replacement bridge, however, it does appear that this is a common fault that gives the part a relatively short life span. Even with a broken set lever bridge, the watch can still function - the clutch will still engage the winding pinion and the set wheel when the stem is activated. There is just no firm feel to its position and a 'click' firm seat the clutch.

UPDATE: I've purchased a replacement set lever bridge from an Australian supplier on eBay - $13 (not including postage). Now the movement is fully functional, at least until the new poorly designed/manufactured set lever bridge breaks.

Back to the reverse of the movement, with the winding pinion and the clutch installed.

And now for the mainspring barrel assembly.

A puzzling and ever so slightly annoying feature of the AF1010 is the click screw. The click screw is also a bridge screw, with a very long thread and a slightly larger screw head than the other bridge screws. If I'd have designed this movement, I would have had screw that did hold down two items, this can lead to confusion and possible damage during disassembly.

Now, the following photo shows the crown/transmission and winding wheels already attached to the winding bridge. After I took this photo I had to remove both of these wheels to place the third wheel and the seconds wheel, as they need to sit below the winding bridge wheels. I also sheered the screw holding down the crown wheel, luckily I had a spare from the parts movement.

Aligning the train bridge is eminently frustrating with this movement. The third wheel and the escapement have cap jewels which are pressed into a small fittings on the bridge. As far as I can tell, they are not designed to be removed and offer no shock protection. So trying to seat the pivots becomes a very time consuming operation. If you don't demonstrate that highly necessary virtue needed by all watchmakers - patience - then you'll break off the top pivots on both the third and escapement (again, luckily I had the parts movement).

I got there in the end. The balance is installed and it runs like a metronome. For the more astute reader, you may notice the the balance cock has a shock spring on the balance cap jewel, whilst on the obverse of the movement the balance cap stone does not have shock protection. The reason for this is, again, due to the parts movement required to bring this troublesome watch back to life.

Installed in the case ready for the hands.

Despite all the trouble this movement has given me, it certainly feel like it was worth it.




  1. Hi there, great site...

    i am really interested in how you clean your watch parts, i like the cage youve made also.



  2. Thanks Jonathan,

    I've tried a number of methods, suitable for my budget, and the best I've found is naphtha in an ultrasonic cleaner.

    I've tried some standard water-based cleaning solutions in the u/s cleaner, but I got either bad or really bad results. Mostly due to water clinging to the movement, despite the solution touting 'no drip' qualities suitable for delicate items.

    Depending on the condition of the movement, I may use a small fine brush on the parts within the naphtha. I may also run the parts through multiple processes. And if you do use naphtha, be sure to use some type of extraction system for the fumes.


  3. Thanks for thr reply. What do you ise for the naptha. Ronsol lighter fuel? As i.noticed it can.sometimes leave a residue?

    What sort of extraction.do.you have ? Anything other than a window like me!

    Thanks again


    1. I'm using Sceney's Quality Shellite. I think it's an Australian company, so the product may not be available overseas. Also, it's my understanding that the term Shellite is uniquely Australian, but feel free to correct me on this.

      As for lighter fluids, they may have other components which make the solution suitable for combustion within lighters, but which leave a residue. Honestly I'm not sure, so I'd probably stick to as pure a form of naphtha as possible. You should be able to check the manufacturer's MSDS to find if there are any adulterants which make the fluid unsuitable.

      For extraction, I've just finished building a small fume box with extraction fan. It allows me to get my face up & close to the work, through a clear protective screen. I've then rigged a 120mm computer case fan to draw the vapour from the box and push it out the back. And remember eye protection!